Stop copper from tarnishing.
Restore, protect & prevent copper from stains, tarnish & fading.
Seal in the desired copper patina.
Which coating should be used on Copper?
Everbrite™, ProtectaClear® or CrobialCoat™
As a general rule of thumb you use Everbrite™ Protective Coating for Copper Outdoors; and ProtectaClear® for Copper Indoors. ProtectaClear® is also used for items subject to a lot of handling and abuse.
Another coating option is CrobialCoat™ which has the added advantage of Microban technology which can be used alone or over surfaces that have been precoated with ProtectaClear® It is ideal for surfaces where bacterial germs are likely to get on surfaces being frequently touched such as copper utensils and serving plates and platters.
Protectaclear and CrobialCoat™ are food safe once the coating has cured. Once cured all of our coatings are heat resistant up to 260 – 285 degrees centigrade. The coatings will start gas off at about 350 degrees centigrade.
Everbrite™ Protective Coating
Everbrite for Copper Outdoors
Everbrite™ is a tough, durable and graffiti resistant clear coating with a pencil hardness on H4. It is packed with UV Filters and UV Stabilisers to protect against harsh UV levels to stop fade and tarnish.
Everbrite™ is the best coating for copper outdoors. It is a thicker coating with UV filters to protect the copper in harsh conditions. Use Everbrite™ for Copper Roofs, Building Cladding, Spouting and Downpipes, Weather Vanes, Capping, Fittings and Outdoor Sculptures.
Everbrite™ will withstand heat up to 285 degrees centigrade before it begins to burn off.
How many coats of Everbrite™ for exterior Copper?
2 to 3 coats for all exterior copper metals. Coastal areas – 3 coats
PHOTO: Home overlooking Wellington Harbour. These exterior downpipes and spouting have been sealed with three (3) coats of Everbrite™ Protective Coating
ProtectaClear for Copper Indoors & highly used items
ProtectaClear® is a tough and durable coating with a pencil hardness of H8. It is the best coating for items that will be enduring high use. i.e. a lot of handling and abuse. It is also foodsafe once cured and will withstand heat up to 285 degrees centigrade before it begins to burn off.
ProtectaClear®is a tough coating that can take the banging and crashing of pots and pans in the kitchen or general wear a tear of bathroom sinks. Use ProtectaClear® for Ornaments, Indoor Sculptures, Light Fittings, Jewellery, Utensils, Table Tops, Splashbacks, Sinks and Bowls, Pots, Pans and Fittings.
How many coats of ProtectaClear® ?
- Ornamental highly polished metals: 1 to 2 coats
- Balustrades, Bannisters: 2 to 3 coats
- Jewellery: 3 to 4 coats
- Kitchen Sinks and Basins: 4 coats
- Bathroom Sinks: 2 coats
- Kitchen Splashbacks and Range Hoods: 2 coats
- Countertops/Bars/Tabletops: 3 to 4 coats
PHOTO: This bathroom vanity bowl has been sealed with two (2) coats of ProtectaClear®.
CrobialCoat™ combines the power of our ProtectaClear coating as a tough, durable clear coating with the added advantage of Microban technology. This coating can be used to coat over surfaces that have been precoated with ProtectaClear® or can be used alone.
This coating is for surfaces where bacterial germs are likely to get on surfaces that are frequently touched; such as door handles, taps and door knockers, light switches; particularly in public amenities and where the public is touching surfaces continuously.
This coating is truly a GERM BUSTER !
- Hospitals, Rest Homes
- Hotels, Motels
- Restaurants, Bars, Casinos
- Schools and Universities
- Shopping Malls
How many coats of CrobialCoat?
Apply the same number coats as recommended for Protectaclear (above) or; CrobialCoat can be applied over the top of a precoated ProtectaClear surface.
Which finish? Natural Gloss or Satin
Both ProtectaClear® and Everbrite™ coatings come in a Natural Gloss or Satin finish.
The Natural Gloss formula is usually the preferred choice for highly polished items as it allows the natural beauty of the copper glow to shine through. The Satin formula has a sheen but not a high shine. Copper tiles with patina are usually coated with a satin finish.
See the difference between Natural Gloss and Satin finish on these copper tiles that have been coated with ProtectaClear®.
Refer to the photo of copper tiles with patina finish.
Rows from Bottom Left:
1 – 4 Without any coating applied
5 – 6 SATIN finish in our ProtectaClear® Coating
7 – 10 NATURAL GLOSS finish in our ProtectaClear® Coating.
How much coating do I need to coat copper?
As a rule of thumb 100 mL of coating will provide a one (1) coat coverage to just over 2 square metres of smooth bare metal like brass, bronze, copper silver and stainless steel.
Be sure to calculate coating requirement according to the recommended number of coats for the item you are coating. As an example a surface area of two (2) square metres to be coated with two (2) coats will take about 200 mL of coating therefore you would select the Small kit which contains 250mL of coating.
Before you start
You need to determine whether the copper item has been previously coated with a lacquer or varnish.
If you are unable to polish/clean the copper then it is most likely that it had been coated with a lacquer or varnish and the tarnish has developed under the old coating.
If you are unable to see any blackening on a cloth when you try to polish the copper then this indicates there is an old coating on the copper which will need to be removed with a varnish/lacquer stripper available from a Hardware Store; before you polish/clean the metal to the desired finish ready for recoating.
Some customers have successfully sanded off old coatings and tarnish from copper; finishing off with a fine grit wet and dry sand paper, however not all items are suitable for sanding.
Photo at right shows where the old coating has been removed with a varnish stripper to enable cleaning/polishing. The dark areas are yet to have the old coating removed to enable cleaning/polishing.
How do you prepare Copper for coating?
If you want to coat copper while it is still new and shiny, clean any oil or other contaminants from the metal . This can be done by simply wiping the metal with a solvent cleaner like xylene or denatured alcohol which can be purchased at most hardware or paint stores. The solvents will not remove tarnish, patina or dark fingerprints. These would need to be polished off of the surface.
Previously coated Copper (see above)
If the item is tarnished it still may have been coated with a varnish/lacquer which will need to be removed with a varnish stripper available from your hardware store, before you can polish to the desired finish.
- REMOVE OLD COATING IF APPLICABLE See ‘Before you start’ above for details
- BUFF, POLISH, CLEAN or SAND and completely remove films, oils, waxes and silicone if required.
To remove years of stubborn tarnish build up you can use our environmentally friendly Copper Cleaning Gel. MAAS polish is also available to bring the highest shine after the tarnish has been removed. See the Project Photos below.
- NEUTRALIZE ACIDS – Acid traces must be removed from the surface otherwise black marks/dark cloudiness will appear under the coating. You need to remember that finger and hand prints leave acid traces on copper so it is important to wear nitrile gloves (not latex) when handling the copper after this neutralising step up right up until it has had its first coat applied.
- RINSE WELL & DRY COMPLETELY – Rinse twice with clean water. Dry with a clean cloth to prevent spotting.
- SOLVENT WIPE – Just before applying the coating solvent wipe the metal thoroughly with methylated spirits, xylene or acetone on a dry cloth to help dry the surface further. Rub well if the surface has recently been polished to remove all traces of polish residue. NEVER USE isopropyl alcohol or turpentine as these contain oil.
- COATING APPLICATION – The surface to be coated must be scrupulously clean, sterile and bone dry; and had just been solvent wiped immediately before coating application. Once the metal is clean, Everbrite™, ProtectaClear® or CrobialCoat™ can be applied by several methods. It can be sprayed on, or wiped on the surface with clear-coat applicators, fine paint brushes, poly-sponge brushes or a pad of lint-free white cloth. Let it dry and enjoy your beautiful bronze sculpture, doors, plaques, and more.
***TIP: Use nitrile gloves to handle polished, cleaned and new copper before its first coat is applied, otherwise you will end up with dark fingerprints on the metal under the coating.
Dry Time and Cure Time?
How long do I have to wait for the coating to dry?
In normal conditions the coating will be touch dry after 60 to 90 minutes. It is best to allow 2 hours between coats.
The coating MUST be fully cured before prolonged contact with other surfaces; e.g. packaging, allowing water to sit on the coated surface, immersing in water or filling fountains, etc. In most cases, dew or rain does not hurt the coating once it is dry for 3 to 4 hours. But do NOT allow water to pool on the surface of the coating for a minimum of two weeks after coating.
Heat and air circulation hastens curing. Under normal circumstances and with good ventilation the coating will be well cured after 4 to 5 days. However the coating is delicate until fully cured, which can take up to 3 to 4 weeks depending upon the number of coats applied. You can shorten cure time by gently heating the coating AFTER it is dry to the touch. Smaller items like jewellery and fittings can be placed in a low temperature oven at 60°C – 80°C for 1 hour and will be cured when cooled.
IMPORTANT: Sinks and Water Features
Avoid pooling water, filling with water, or pouring boiling water in the sink for a minimum of two weeks after coating.
Sinks may take longer to cure. A deep sink does not get much air circulation. A hairdryer or heated fan can be used every so often to introduce heat and circulation to the area after it is coated to speed curing.
See the following photos show how this 50 year old copper pipe fitting has been cleaned of tarnish, polished and coated.
50 years of tarnish can be difficult to remove – use our heavy duty Copper Cleaning Gel
After cleaning with Copper Cleaning Gel (bottom section only) and rinsing and drying off
Bottom left hand section has been polished with MAAS and coated with ProtectaClear®
Ongoing Cleaning and Maintenance
Cleaning and After Care
Do NOT use solvent or citrus based cleaners or abrasives to clean the coated metal.
Do NOT use cleaners with petroleum distillates.
Suggested cleaner: Use mild soap and water only.
Once coated the coating is easy to maintain. Inspect periodically thereafter to check if/when recoating is needed.
Keep an eye out for discolouration, scratches/damage and recoat that area immediately before tarnish appears.
As long as the original coating is still intact, wash the surface with a mild soap and water, rinse off well and then dry thoroughly and then recoat. It is best to recoat before any tarnish or oxidation is seen or at the first sight of slight colour change.
The time between maintenance coats is dependent on proper application of the coating, number of coats initially applied, the environment, and general use and abuse.
Copper is a reactive metal. In a process called oxidation, copper reacts slowly in the presence of oxygen, resulting in copper oxide, also referred to as tarnish, which is generally perceived as a brown or black colouration on the surface.
Everbrite’s Copper Cleaning Gel is available for heavily tarnished copper. Refer to the Copper Cleaning Gel directions.
You can also sand tarnish off heavily tarnished copper.
If you are unable to clean the copper then it is most likely that it had been coated with a lacquer or varnish and the tarnish has developed under the old coating. You need to remove the old coating so that you can clean the tarnish off.
If you are unable to polish the copper then it is most likely that it had been coated with a lacquer or varnish and the tarnish has developed under the old coating. You need to remove the old coating so that you can polish the copper to a finish as desired.
If there is a high mineral content in the water, use distilled water to avoid discolouration from water mineral components.
Polish is NOT recommended for older tarnished copper roofs due to the roughness of the metal. Polish gets stuck in the rough areas and cannot easily be removed. Use Copper Cleaning Gel for small jobs; but for larger jobs it is better to sand off the tarnish from roofs.
The coatings are easy to apply. Clean and polish the surface to the desired finish. Neutralise the surface to rid of any acid traces, solvent wipe then apply the coating. Use solvent like denatured alcohol (meths or acetone) to clean the surface. This will also help remove any polish residues and draw out any moisture that may be in the pores of the metal. The metal MUST be completely clean and DRY. The coatings can be painted on with a brush, wiped on with our round clear coat pads, sprayed on or rolled on with a microfibre roller.